With a population approaching 1.3 million it's a sprawling, diesel-laced city buzzing with tuk-tuks (three-wheeler taxis), street stalls, vibrant markets and dragon-topped temples.
The ceremonial center has a tightly packed cluster of temples, colonnaded halls, oratories, shrines, sanctuaries, altars, and platforms (for oration, dancing, or stela display).
At its best times, the monastery housed 1,500 lamas and consisted of 6 aimags (big temples), 16 datsans (medium-sized temples), and 29 dugans (small temples).